![]() ![]() Today Greene has a fast-casual spot, Pegaso Mexican Diner, in Fort Worth. Monica Greene and Joanne Bondy were at the forefront of the Modern Mexican cuisine movement in Dallas when they opened Ciudad in 2000. (Revolver Taco Lounge will close at the end of June.) But the failure rate among Modern Mexican restaurants that opened during the ensuing two years was dismal: Among 10 notable establishments that opened in 20, five folded.ĥ. ![]() Mesero) have gone on to open one or more additional outlets. They were very successful: Only Alma has since closed, while several (Velvet Taco, Meso Maya, Mr. There was an explosion of Modern Mexican restaurant debuts in 2011, with 10 notable openings: Alma Komali Wild Salsa Velvet Taco Revolver Taco Lounge Meso Maya Mi Día From Scratch Lazaranda Mexican Seafood Grill and Mr. Modern Mexican dishes are often found in Modern Texas restaurants, such as Stampede 66 (wild mushrooms and huitlacoche tamales) and Smoke (pit-roasted cabrito in masa).Ĥ. They have since become de rigueur in our top Mexican restaurants.ģ. In 2011, six Modern Mexican establishments that debuted in North Texas featured house-made corn tortillas. A house-made tortilla trend has been sweeping restaurants around the country this year, but Dallas was way ahead of the curve. On the menu were dishes such as blue corn masa turnovers filled with squash blossoms, epazote and Oaxaca cheese filet of beef in a huitlacoche sauce and grilled red snapper on a cactus paddle with ancho chile-cumin sauce.Ģ. Modern Mexican cuisine isn’t exactly new to Dallas: In 1996, La Valentina de Mexico, an outpost of a Mexico City hotspot, opened on Montfort Road. It’s all similar in style to Quiñones’ cooking at the erstwhile Alma, where she first burst onto the scene as executive chef in 2011.įive things to know about modern Mexican Cuisineġ. Carnitas, crisp-edged and succulent, come served with achiote lentils and grilled pineapple salad. ![]() There are crab-filled enchiladas, blanketed in a sumptuous poblano-corn purée and dressed up with queso fresco and wilted purslane salad, and crispy chicken thighs on a plate streaked with mole negro. Inventive ceviches beckon, too - maybe chopped shrimp, pineapple and jicama bathed in hoja santa-scented, chile-spiked coconut milk with a zing of lemon. Dinner there might start with Oaxaca cheese-filled fried squash blossoms with corn salsa on a tomato vinaigrette, or empanada-like quesadillas filled with huitlacoche and rajas on a truffled avocado purée. You see it at Kitchen LTO, the “permanent pop-up” at Trinity Groves, where Anastacia Quiñones has just taken over the kitchen, kicking off a planned six-month run. Lobster fajitas.Īll over Dallas, creative chefs and restaurateurs are looking to Mexico for inspiration. Grilled rib-eye steak with potato-poblano gratin, a vivid cactus salad and morita hollandaise. A moo shu duck confit taco, smeared with hoisin and dressed with julienned napa cabbage and slivered snow-pea pods. ![]()
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